Solanum melongena

Physalis pruinosa

Vigna subterranea

Oxalis tuberosa

Abelmoschus esculentus

Allium cepa

Capsicum chinense

Capsicum annuum

Capsicum annuum

Capsicum annuum

Vigna unguiculata

Cajanus cajan

Vigna sesquipedalis

Pisum sativum

Arachis Hypogaea

Hibiscus sabdariffa

Cucubita moschata

Ipomoea batatas

Solanum lycopersicum

Solanum lycopersicum

Solanum lycopersicum

Solanum pimpinellifolium

Citrullus lanatus

Ocimum basilicum

Brassica oleracea var. acephala

Origanum vulgare

Plectranthus amboinicus

8

3

fast

120 days

(7 months)

110 days in partial shade

Sugar Baby open-pollinated but saved seed seems to struggle;

high

low

high

wet

will wilt in the afternoon as a response to heat, but recover later when the sun goes down. This is normal. It doesn’t mean that they are in need of more water. If the leaves regain their upright position in the morning, they don’t need additional water.

will wilt in the afternoon as a response to heat, but recover later when the sun goes down. This is normal. It doesn’t mean that they are in need of more water. If the leaves regain their upright position in the morning, they don’t need additional water.

will wilt in the afternoon as a response to heat, but recover later when the sun goes down. This is normal. It doesn’t mean that they are in need of more water. If the leaves regain their upright position in the morning, they don’t need additional water.

will wilt in the afternoon as a response to heat, but recover later when the sun goes down. This is normal. It doesn’t mean that they are in need of more water. If the leaves regain their upright position in the morning, they don’t need additional water.

med

high

high

high

low

low

low

med

benefits from nitrogen foliar spray

continuous

(Oct-freeze)

continuous

(Oct-freeze)

seems unable to live past 3-6 months regardless of conditions such that periodic plantings are appropriate

yes

yes

fs

fs/ps (full sun with some afternoon shade)

ps - great success w/partial shade

very

(dead from 29F)

32F; killed at 29F in 2022

32F; killed at 29F in 2022

32F; killed at 29F in 2022

easily survived 29F for hours

easily survived 29F for hours

easily survived 29F for hours

killed at 29F in 2022

propagated by seed, sets, transplants & bulbils; seeds allow access to many varieties but are not as easy to grow; sets are miniature bulbs that grow into large bulbs so much easier than seeds but varieties are extremely limited;

fruited big in sunny Z1QSE with ample water and scant compost; fruited big in hugelbed too, under companion shade, and minimal water; so suspect consistent soil moisture more important than either sun or soil. wrap stem in moss to prevent slug girdling

stopped growing these because just could not enjoy the flavor

no nematodes

water regularly
cut back to survive winter
harvest before flowering to eat calyx and seed
harvest after flowering to eat calyx only
before flowering provides more production

only very large plants fruit, so if stays small, rip it out; shade synergy with weeds builds soil where otherwise would not; nematodes found on some, and not on some; larger fruit on new large vines in partial shade

requires care in harvesting, curing, and storing - see almanac.com; first varieties we planted were market tubers, Cuban Boniatos (red skin, white flesh) and Centennial or Beauregard (orange skin/flesh).

Sweet potatoes are started by using slips or by cuttings. Slips are grown from roots that have been bedded, with each root expected to produce from 8 to 12 plants. Cuttings may be taken from vigorously growing vines at the terminal or middle portions. These 8- to 10-inch long sections are planted at 12-inch intervals in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart.

Tubers may be cut into sections but must be planted horizontally for buds to find air and roots to find soil.

Planted year-round in South Florida, with harvests occurring 120 to 180 days after planting.

32F; killed at 29F in 2022

transplant seedlings no older than 3 weeks up to sep 1 each year expecting fruit 10 weeks later; 6 plants in hugelbeds yielded 1.5 cups/day for 4 months, 3/4 cups/day for 3 months; Obtained in Hidalgo, Mexico by Teresa Arellanos de Mena; remove leaf-footed bugs (black adults and orange nymphs), which suck fruit, leaving marbled appearance and ruined flavor; seems most productive when first pinch all suckers while main vine grows large, then allow branching every 3ft along each/every branch

Black Cherry tomato is definitly a keeper; remove leaf-footed bugs (black adults and orange nymphs), which suck fruit, leaving marbled appearance and ruined flavor;

a wild species of tomato native to Ecuador and Peru; finding the Dwarf Red Currant seeds ordered from Zellajake Farm and Garden are tough skinned, no special flavor, so special disease resistance or yield

germination sluggish from saved seed: cold soil? old seed? is this a hybrid?; sugar baby and crimson sweet are both vulnerable to splitting; crimson sweet is nematode resistant; observed can be very slow to grow vines past ~3ft but these can later take off as normal; observed that a suntan on fruit top indicates ripeness

prefers cool weather; prop up young plants with angled stick to prevent fall-over

O. basilicum is sweet basil which has clove/licorice scent; O. Americanum is lemon basil with a lemon scent

slow to grow but lasts up to june with adequate water/mist

benefits from partial shade

4 plants enough for us with adequate spacing

easy

grow big in compost-amended hugelbed with adequate water and spacing; remove shadecloth at night to cool down; problems with germination of saved seed - is this a hybrid?

seed germination difficulty: cold soil? old seeds? experiment

solid green plant far more flavorful than variegated plant; small leaves far more flavorful than large leaves;

not as heat tolerant as advertised?

wild greens we often put in our salads: wood sorrel (Oxalis acetosella), blue spiderwort (Tradescantia ohiensis), dayflower (Commelina spp.), one with mint shaped leaves, one with teardrop shaped leaves

tend to stop growing at 1" in seedpie but readily take off once planted out

wrap stem with cardboard to prevent girdling; problems with plants from saved seed probably means they are hybrid

wrap stem with cardboard to prevent girdling; problems with plants from saved seed probably means they are hybrid

wrap stem with cardboard to prevent girdling; problems with plants from saved seed probably means they are hybrid

plant up to mid-sep, first pods 1.5 mo later

plant in Mar for Oct harvest

no later than sep 1 cuz need 3 months; volunteers germinate in April/May suggesting best time to plant?

no later than sep 1 cuz need 3 months

no later than sep 1 cuz need 3 months

3ft min row spacing to prevent fruit rot in rainy season; wrap stem with cardboard to prevent girdling

wrap stem with cardboard to prevent girdling

wrap stem with cardboard to prevent girdling

soil>70F

cool climate; direct sowed seed grow very fast while transplants are very sluggish

hot climate

plant seedpie because very slow growing

cool climate

plant up to oct 1

plant up to oct 1

plant seedpie because very slow growing

cuttings in 1-3 gal pots gave great success

plant up to oct 1

loose, sandy soil

heavy mulch to regulate soil moisture

likes

fruit rot risk in 24/7 wet/humid conditions

remove all suckers like tomatoes

very little increase in sweetness off vine; ripe when exhibiting fragrance or softness or soft spots & overripe when exhibiting excess softness or soft spots or fermentation

pick when immature for best flavor and to stimulate further fruiting; fruit size is no indicator of maturity so we can only guess when to pick! fruit should be shiny & spongy (rebounds when gently squeezed); over-mature fruit are dull & dent from squeezing, have dark seeds, and are bitter; remove hard fruit as soon as possible; Long Purple variety best picked before 8".

falls from plant before fully ripe; should be left for 1-2 weeks until husk dry and fruit golden-yellow; will keep for several months; also dries into tasty "raisins".

for minimum starch, maximum sugar & largest yield, harvest after peas bulge but before skin color changes so that peas are max size, but still rounded and color solid, rather than turning more rectangular and mottled; to minimize waste of sugars in pod, harvest after pods stiffen and skin color changes so that peas turn more rectangular and mottled;

harvest after green pod color turns yellow to avoid astringency

pods sweeter when more mature, almost spongy

all pods mature 120 days after planting despite variabe flower timing

harvest right after flower closes, cutting off and discarding top half of flower; alternatively, harvest after calyces open and dried flower falls off and discard seed pod;

when to pick: shiny & lighter green is tender, including tender skin/seeds; dull & darker green is more mature and not really beneficial, because best flavor is when fully mature, when skin has no traces of green, also longest storage life; to store mature fruit: cut stem at vine; rotate in sun for half hour to hour; store on wood or cardboard in cool, dry, dark place for 30 to 90 days

they keep for 1 to 2 week after harvest

harvest when partly pink and cracks less than 1/2", and ripen on window sill to avoid worms/decay

they say pick when fruit surface rough to touch, fruit color dull, bottom changes from light green to yellowish; but in our experience pick/eat within a week after vine is dead or a sunspot develops on top; no further ripening after picking