Pouteria caimito

Malpighia emarginata

Spondias dulcis

Musa acuminata

Musa acuminata

Musa acuminata

Randia formosa

Citrofortunella mitis

Pouteria campechiana

Pouteria campechiana

Averrhoa carambola

Anacardium occidentale

Muntingia calabura

Eugenia aggregata/involucrata

Eugenia calycina

Annona Reticulata

Citrus X paradisi

Citrus X paradisi

Citrus X paradisi

Citrus X paradisi

Eugenia brasiliensis

Pisidium Guajava

Myrciaria cauliflora

Artocarpus heterophyllus

Citrus japonica

Artocarpus hypargyraeus

Citrus × meyeri
hybrid citron x (mandarin x pomelo)
likely established thousands of years before Meyer introduced to US in 1908 from China

Citrus aurantifolia

Citrus x limonia
hybrid citron x mandarin orange

Dimocarpus longan

Litchi chinensis

Pouteria sapota

Citrus unshiu

Citrus poonensis

Magnifera indica

Magnifera indica

Magnifera indica

Magnifera indica

Magnifera indica

Magnifera indica

Magnifera indica

Synsepalum dulcificum

Citrus sinensis

Citrus sinensis

Citrus sinensis

Citrus sinensis

Citrus nobilis

C. reticulata × C. sinensis

Butia capitata

Carica papaya

Bunchosia armeniaca

Ananas comosus

Engenia uniflora

Eugenia selloi (neonitida)

Selenicereus megalanthus

Selenicereus costaricensis

Eugenia luschnathiana

Citrus maxima

Eugenia ligustrina

Eugenia candolleana

Rollinia deliciosa

Manilkara zapota

Manilkara zapota

Manilkara zapota

Annona squamosa

Tamarindus indica

Citrus × tangelo

30

15

10

6-8

6-8

15

30

30

25, spreading

30

20, spreading

15

10-12(max), 3-4(avg)

26-33

35

12-14? 25? 35?

25

15x10

15-20

30-70 (Black Gold dwarf)

12

10-20

6-10

15

20

40 dia.

25

45

12

20

25 (large)

dwarf, ultra compact

medium, can be 10ft or less

semi-dwarf (compact grower), can be 10ft, Cotton Candy;

medium

5

25

25

25

moderate

15x15

20

9

6-12x4

20

16-50

10-15

10-12

50

small

dwarf

20

50

large

fast

fast

med; constant

fast; constant

fast; constant

fast; constant

slow

slow

fast - 3 to 4 ft/year

fast - 3 to 4 ft/year

fast

fast; constant

fast

slow; 2 lf/yr

fast

fast

slow; 2 lf/yr

fast

slow

fast

slow

slow

moderate

fast; 4-6 lf/yr

fast; numerous flushes

slow

med; 2-4 lf/yr

med; 2-4 lf/yr

med; 2-4 lf/yr

med; 2-4 lf/yr

med; 2-4 lf/yr

med; 2-4 lf/yr

slow

slow; 4 lf/yr

slow; 4 lf/yr

slow; 4 lf/yr

slow; 4 lf/yr

med

slow

fast; constant

fast

med; constant

slow

med-fast

med

med

slow

med

slow to start

fast

fast; constant

med; constant; some say extremely slow but not ours

med; constant; some say extremely slow but not ours

fast; 1 spring leafing observed when fruiting, constant leafing for months observed when recovering from freeze

slow

fast

1-4

0

2-3

4; may need to grow larger to bear fruit

4; may need to grow larger to bear fruit

0

3

0

4-5

2-3

3-4

4-5

2-3

8 from seed

4 from seed

not true from seed

4 from graft

4-6 from seed

6 from seed

8 from seed; 1 from transplant

4-5 from seed

3-8 from seed

3-8 from seed

3-8 from seed

3-8 from seed

3-8 from seed

3-4

1

1-2

2-4

2

10lbs. plant wt.

10lbs. plant wt.

2

3-4

2

2-3

soon

soon

2-3

3-5

low

low (including dwarf trait)

low (nucellar)

high

high

high

low

low

low

low (nucellar)

low

low (nucellar)

higher (improved Meyer)

low (nucellar)

low (nucellar)

low (nucellar)

low (nucellar)

low (nucellar)

high (zygotic)

low (nucellar)

high (zygotic)

low (nucellar)

high (zygotic)

low (nucellar)

low (nucellar)

high

low

low

low

low

The seeds of the pomelo are monoembryonic, producing seedlings with genes from both parents, but they are usually similar to the tree they grow on and therefore pomelo is typically grown from seed in Asia.

low

low

high

high

low

clonal hybrid (monoembryonic)

wet

med (drought tolerant but needs moisture for fruiting and nematodes)

med

med

med

well-drained

dry

dry

dry

wet

med (for flowering/fruiting)

wet

dry

dry

wet (shallow roots)

dry

med

wet

wet

med

wet

wet

wet

wet

wet

wet

med

med

med

med

dry

cold:dry/warm:moist

high, or leaves wilt

dry (2 in/mo)

low (deep-rooted)

high

low

low

med

wet

wet

dry

dry

dry

high (deter nematodes)

medium

high

high

high

acidic

high

medium

medium

high

high

low

low (except to prevent dieback)

high

high

high

high

high

high

high; rich sandy loam

high - bonning said the lychee wants no feed from oct to feb to discourage leafing and encourage flowering

medium

high

high

high

high

high

high

acidic

high

high

high

high

med

low

high

high

low

hight

high

medium

medium

high

medium

summer

ever

(ever)

(Aug-Oct)

(Aug)

(Jun)

(ever)

(May-Jul)

ever

spring

ever

(Dec-Apr)

(Mar) Apr-Sep

Apr-May

Jan to everbearing

(3 cycles/year)

Feb-Mar

Dec-Jan

Dec-Jan (Mar)

Dec-Jan

(Mar)

Dec-Jan

(Dec-Mar)

(Feb-Mar)

(Jan-Mar)

(Dec-Mar)

(ever)

Mar

ever

Apr-May

several

Aug-Oct

ever (Oct-Nov)

Mar-May (Apr-Nov)

Mar-May (Apr-Aug)

Mar-May

Jun

fall

ever

(ever)

(ever)

(Dec-Feb)

Sep/Oct/Feb-May

ever

3 months after flowering

ever

3 weeks after flowering

Feb-Apr

(Dec-Mar)

Nov-May

mid-season (earlier than Marsh)

1 month after flowering

Jun-Aug

Feb to everbearing

Jun-Oct

(Nov-Jan)

Feb-Apr

Nov-Mar

(Aug-Dec harvest)

everbearing

Aug-Sep

(late May - early Jun)

(late Nov - early Dec) extremely narrow: not sweet if early (mid Nov); dry/spongy if late (mid Dec); DO NOT fall from tree

May-Jun

Jun-Jul

Jun-Jul

Aug-Sep

May-Jun

everbearing

(Dec-Jul)

(Feb-Mar)

(Nov-Mar)

(Nov-Jan)

Jan-Mar

Jan-Mar

(ever)

everbearing (after late spring flowering)

Aug

3-4 weeks after flowering

May-Jul (4-6 weeks after flowering)

several

Nov-Dec

55 days after

Nov-Jun (May-Aug)

May-Nov (Mar-May)

Jul-Sep (Aug 30)

Nov-Dec

(Nov-Feb) (someone suggested Dec-May but we think harvesting sooner makes for easier peeling since the pulp membranes are so delicate)

yes

fully

fully

fully

fully

fully

fully

mostly?

partly

partly

fully

fully

fully

fully

fully

partly (benefits from companion)

partly

fully

partly (largerfruits with seeds when cross-pollinated but how preferable?

fully

fully

fully

fully

fully

mostly

fully

fully

mostly

mostly

mostly

mostly

mostly

mostly

fully

fully

fully

N/A

fully

mostly?

fully?

fully

fully

fully

fully

fully

mostly

mostly

fully - hand-pollinating unnecessary but may increase yield

fs/ps (see notes)

shade in summer when young

100-70%

ps

fs

fs

fs/ps

fs (no flowers after 2 years so needs more sun)

fs

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs - high heat requirement

fs/ps

fs/ps

ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs (needed to reach full size due to sparse canopy)

fs

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs (needs heat for sweet)

fs/ps

fs/ps = big/small yield

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

ps - cannot handle full sun, at least when small

fs/fs

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs/ps

fs

fs

30

25

25

28

28

28

26

20

23

23

24

32

can survive brief frosts

20

25

27

28

25

28

24-27

28 (Black Gold more)

12

30 (probably lower - listed as sub-tropical, slower growth rate, long germination period, etc)

20 (apparently more cold-hardy than other lemon varieties)

32

22

25

25

26

15

25

25 - supposedly hardiest variety used as rootstock but tops damaged in 2022 freeze

28

28

28

28

28

28

32

28

28

27

27

cold sensitive

10

32

hardy and cold tolerant

28

22

22?

30

30

27

28

28

28

27

26

26

26

28

25-29

26

soil moisture, cold hardiness, and nematode issues suggest protection under larger trees; seems to need regular watering to prevent wilting of new growth along with nematode control

heavy fruit load reduces cold tolerance; strategy: pick off flowers/fruit in summer/fall; leave flowers/fruit in winter/spring; Winter 2018/2019 5x 3 nights 40 deg, plants carrying 3-5 fruits each, not covered, all lost leaves but quickly leafed out all up and down stalks; transplanted 2-3 seedlings, by pulling bare roots from pot (to protect remaining one) and died, suggesting roots be undisturbed in soil when transplanting;

thriving in shade as understory to Kary carambola in Z6; cannot tolerate lots of sun such as in Z3

consistently, all leaves turn yellow after flowering, we think nitrogen deficiency

IMPORTANT! 1) clip stem with e.g. wirecutters cuz less ripe fruits in the panacle easily shake loose and crush from impact on ground - happened more than once! 2) harvest ALL fruit before tropical storm because they are highly vulnerable to blowing off and being damaged

pioneer species thrives in poor soil

shallow root system

Duncan - flavorful but seedy; Marsh - mild flavor and seedless

rain deters fruit set

2.5 months for seed to germinate!

rooted cutting; high summer temperatures have an adverse impact but variety provne to thrive in Florida

root system shallow to 12 in.

longan trees tend to grow much larger than lychees; biew kiew has more cold-tolerance than other varieties, later season, huge, delicious fruit, crisper flesh, thicker skin

may be sensitive to heat

1st 3 seedlings from grocery fruit; we determined it is unknowable which embryos are nucellar and zygotic so we grow several and keep our favorite which will probably be a nucellar (clone)

Origin Delray Beach, Florida, 1940

we like: easy to detect when to pick by clear color change, almost no fungi damage on mature fruits, thick skin helps eating, easily peeled helps eating, excellent flesh-to-seed ratio, very consistent delicious, rather unique flavor, though milder than some varieties, very consistent, nice texture, flesh decay volume expands very little beyond skin decay area, large fruits, productive tree, easy-to-manage vertical habit; we dislike: unpredictable severe fruit drop, suspect powdery mildew may reduce production, significant fruit split, bitter skin we have one #4 which can have two fruiting seasons different from the standard nam doc mai and we learned from experience that #4 only wants to flower and rarely leafs

Cotton Candy is a Keitt seedling crossed with a Gary.

Shipped from India, ~1ft long, 1/4" dia, graft tape still on, wet rootball well-sealed, shipping time 14 days

prone to alternate bearing and vulnerable to tree death unless some fruits are culled in heavy-bearing seasons

extremely delicious in June 2019; short lifespan; females fruit twice/year; males fruit once/year; most seedlings are male and earliest id of male is flower collar diameter smaller than rest of flower; suspect papaya wasp active only in spring/early summer, with successful mitigation by covering young fruits with spanish moss; flavor seems to correlate more with warm temperature during maturation, softness of fruit, and tree/position and less with intensity of color; strategy expanding to include planting near fence lines so extensive root systems can traverse through their fertile soil

wilts easily & responds to frequent watering

responds well to foliar nutrient spray; market fruit tops will fruit 1.5 years after planting, then sucker at least twice when sucker is removed/planted; at base of leaves are aerial roots that absorb water/nutrients; we observed older plants very yellow with no growth the entire spring of 2020 then after a 4 month rainy season, covered in weeds the pineapples are green and growing; we suspect the mulch/debris at the leaf base and on the soil need the shelter/shade conditions to deliver the nutrients; we noticed large market tops are far more vigorous than small garden tops;

1st fruit in June 2023 tasted a little like tangy tomato.

germinated readily in spring; vigorous seedlings

shorter lifespan; shallow roots; pollen is available around dusk (shortly before, during, and after) while pistil is receptive in morning and perhaps afternoon; many flowers remain female from the morning through the afternoon of the next day

smooth texture fruit; slow growing

grainy texture fruit; slow growing

shorter lifespan; shallow roots; many flowers; needs humidity during flowering season; yield improvement likely by culling distorted fruits and smaller of fruit pairs; adequate pollination occurring, we think, by the abundance of brown, 2mm bugs consistently found inside to the flowers; noticing uneven shape of developing fruits, we think pistil coverage possibly improved by hand-pollination: we shake pollen from wide open flowers, store in sealed container in shade, discard when brown, and brush into barely open flowers, gently to avoid bending stems; unlike rollinia, there is no critical time of day when stamens are productive or pistils are receptive; kill brown bugs in flowers or they eat all the pollen; fruit splits in wet season

cross between Duncan grapefruit and Dancy tangerine; flesh so soft makes peeling difficult; fruiting Mar 2019 proves pollination occurs without another Tangelo

very sensitive ? cut off container in soil

sow directly into the field fresh seeds mixed with the sweet juice of the fruit;

depends on long, strong taproot, therefore plant out ASAP; at germination, taproot is small/short relative to stalk and roots are less sensitive, while after some growth roots become sensitive, so starting in pots and relatively quickly transplanting into ground worked well for us

spreading habit

unusually suited for container growth

most trees are volunteers from compost, usually transplanted from other fruit tree mulch piles; easy transplanting by waiting until 1/2" trunk diameter, gently pulling from ground which keeps most large roots intact, and planting;

planting the top of a market fruit: twist top off fruit, slice off soft pulp, remove lower leaves to expose 1/2" of stalk, dry top in shade several days; plant & water; propagating by planting fruit tops and suckers; suckers appear after fruit harvest, leaving one sucker for next fruiting cycle and transplanting extra suckers; given dependence on roots is minor, we suspect plant may continue fruiting from its dominant sucker several cycles before the whole plant needs replacing

sensitive to transplanting, requiring careful management as it takes time to recover; it can take up to 6 months to germinate, which makes it difficult to grow this plant and makes its seedlings valuable, especially larger ones.

heavy hugel

heavy hugel

heavy hugel

acidic soil so hugel with oak

deep fertile sandy loam

none (shallow roots - grows well in Central Florida sand))

acidic

heavy hugel

not demanding

light hugel

prefers

prefers

prefers

prefers

prefers

prefers

prefers

prefers

prefers

prefers

prefers

maybe needed by flowers

prefers

prefers

prefers

no preference

no preference

for pollination

none

allow sun/air into interior

canopy shape is equal height/width so less urgent to top it

canopy shape is equal height/width so less urgent to top it

carambolas seldom need pruning; pruning several times a year will induce out of season fruiting; tipping branches longer than 2-3ft when young increases branching; removing some higher branches enables to keep lower branches when mature;

essential to remove rootstock suckers frequently (they will kill scion) and remove lower branches and water shoots from base

none

narrow shrub; 10ft-20ft

prune to encourage lateral branching

none

none

to shape; then annually to maintain 6-8ft; open interior to increase yield

non need except prune lower limbs to counter spreading habit;

prune young mango seedlings 1st or 2nd year at the 1st or 2nd node around 1ft from ground where it will produce multiple branches. Prune these branches similarly to expand the canopy; removing center buds of young branches produces multiple lateral buds soon after

keep 3-4 branches; removing center buds of young branches produces multiple lateral buds soon after

removing center buds of young branches produces multiple lateral buds soon after

removing center buds of young branches produces multiple lateral buds soon after

cut below ring of buds for branching

We see an apparent excess of small branchlets on citrus that flower, fruit and leaf out yearly but many die back after a few years, so we imagine that pruning some of these can reduce disease burden and free energy for larger branches that may perform better overall. So we prune those that are low to ground, crossing or crowding other branches, or clustered with dead branchlets.

see Grandma Valencia

see Grandma Valencia

see Grandma Valencia

may need to manage fruit load causing branches to droop

can be picked when skin under scurf is yellow, not green; maybe need to scratch skin; ripe when separates from stem without latex; may ripen off tree if picked before that, but probably should leave some stem on

can be picked when skin under scurf is yellow, not green; maybe need to scratch skin; ripe when separates from stem without latex; may ripen off tree if picked before that, but probably should leave some stem on

shown to grow excess foliage that limits flowering/fruiting; thus pruning one branch every 1 foot seems optimal

first fruit from first tree tasted delicious; relatively long maturation period on tree and relatively narrow ripening period among fruits on a rack; firmer fruits are sweet unlike plantain; splits caused spotty softening, we think because they occured in late maturation

fruit development period from flowering to harvest is long; fruit appears to mature when the skin color change from green to yellow, fairly rapidly; we think the flavor is relatively stable for a significant period after skin changes to yellow, due to the thick/hard skin.

first fruit picked 10-6-22, at 1/3 yellow with brown scars, tasted 2 days later, ribs still green and very astringent, yellow/orange flesh mildly sweet, not astringent; smaller fruits lose all turn completely yellow but do not turn orange and develop flavor so we think culling ~30 of fruits allows for tastier, larger, orange colored fruits

climateric, i.e. can pick after maturity (tan, off-white color) and ripen (soft, pinkish-red and flavorful) off-tree, keeping for 1-2 days; branches are extremely delicate, so, to prevent critter destroying branches and wasting fruits, harvest mature fruits at least twice daily;

fruits may be picked red and turn deep purple off tree; flavor very stable across this color transition and across fruits; fruits develop large indentations 1-2 days after picking but flavor remains stable; pulp is sweet while skin is moderately resinous

deteriorates rapidly after picking; on red seedling, red fruits slowly darken for several days before easily disconnecting

best when harvest completely ripe (just to avoid latex or is it non-climateric?)

slight bitter flavor when fully ripe so maybe less bitter when harvested less ripe

pick daily when knobs on skin flatten and skin develops traces of brown which, if left on a few days, develop into one or more skin breaches; seem less tart and more sweet at this stage; no critters seemed interested first season; in 2024 skins developed large brown, i.e. deaded, area but still crisp/hard before flattening began and these were all tart, while some that did not develop brown showed no signs of flattening knobs after several more days we picked/ate and no tart

from ufl: fruit grown in humid subtropical areas commonly matures internally and has good eating quality before good peel color develops; our experience: extremely narrow window in late Nov/early Dec because not sweet mid Nov and dry/spongy mid Dec; with more experience we decided to harvest through November with traces of green remaining in skin, to balance tartness of early fruit and tenderness of late fruit, with tartness providing more enjoyable flavor given the flavor of rully ripe fruit is quite mild, perhaps due to less than full sun; these DO NOT fall from tree to indicate maturity;

climateric/quick

climateric/quick; pick when fruit softens near stem and stem breaks easily; eat soon to avoid funky flavor

climateric/quick

climateric/quick; ripening starts with skin color changing from green to yellow over ~3 days, on or off tree; when skin fully yellow and slightly soft, all flesh color will be orange, flavors include sweet, lemon, and mildly peanut, no tart; when cut before skin turns fully yellow, flesh color will be light to dark yellow, with tartness dominating causing it to lose the flavor of lemon-peanut candy, and tasting much more like lemonade; when cut skin turns orange, flesh color will be much more orange, and all flavors will be less intense, with a flavor balance that includes the addition of a savory flavor to the tart, sweet, lemon and peanut.

climateric/quick

seems skin easier to peel when tree conditions humid/moist

harvest when fruit easily detaches from stem, leaving an orange-colored cavity in the fruit where stem attached; seems skin easier to peel when tree conditions humid/moist

harvest when fruit easily detaches from stem, leaving an orange-colored cavity in the fruit where stem attached; harvest 7 to 12 months after flowering, but varies with weather, so check one fruit for flavor (not color) after 7 months to evaluate crop

7 to 12 months after flowering, but varies with weather, so check one fruit for flavor (not color) after 7 months to evaluate crop

develops most sweetness during color change while on tree. Peak sweetness occurs at peak yellowing/softening on tree. Further yellowing/softening, but not sweetness, occurs off tree (although is cited as climateric); ideally eat when skin around stem translucent revealing coral flesh, waiting for softening to avoid latex;

ripens on tree; spoils quickly; needs picking every day

ripens to full yellow after picking 1/2 yellow, important to prevent animal damage; excellent flavor is preserved including no acid burn

Although climateric, red seedling fruits deteriorate rapidly, even before picking, so we pick them as they turn from orange-red to red for best flavor, and eat them almost immediately; the black seedling fruit become drier and last much longer after picking

ripens & deteriorates quickly

generally ripens a month after flowering; non-climateric, i.e. does not sweeten further after harvest

generally ripens a month after flowering; non-climateric, i.e. does not sweeten further after harvest

1st fruit, May 2024, detached easily, was at a soft stage, and average orange color of pitombas when picked, and tasted nice; what like if picked sooner/later?

1st Makok fruit in 2022 softened on tree and was excellent; 2nd fruit began fermenting before softening on tree, progressing quickly; So we think scratching skin to observe change from green to yellow determines when to pick, and eating either at first sign of softening or fermenting (dark spot on skin)

"Most people find it difficult to tell when a sapodilla is ready to pick. With types that shed much of the "sand" on maturity, it is relatively easy to observe the slight yellow or peach color of the ripe skin, but with other types it is necessary to rub the scurf to see if it loosens readily and then scratch the fruit to make sure the skin is not green beneath the scurf. If the skin is brown and the fruit separates from the stem easily without leaking of the latex, it is fully mature though still hard and must be kept at room temperature for a few days to soften. It is best to wash off the sandy scurf before putting the fruit aside to ripen. It should be eaten when firm-soft, not mushy." -Julia Mortonn

1st Makok fruit in 2022 softened on tree and was excellent; 2nd fruit began fermenting before softening on tree, progressing quickly; So we think scratching skin to observe change from green to yellow determines when to pick, and eating either at first sign of softening or fermenting (dark spot on skin)

"Most people find it difficult to tell when a sapodilla is ready to pick. With types that shed much of the "sand" on maturity, it is relatively easy to observe the slight yellow or peach color of the ripe skin, but with other types it is necessary to rub the scurf to see if it loosens readily and then scratch the fruit to make sure the skin is not green beneath the scurf. If the skin is brown and the fruit separates from the stem easily without leaking of the latex, it is fully mature though still hard and must be kept at room temperature for a few days to soften. It is best to wash off the sandy scurf before putting the fruit aside to ripen. It should be eaten when firm-soft, not mushy." -Julia Mortonn

matures when rind segments turn from green to yellow-green and segments separate up to 1.5mm, exposing white tint between; pick when mature and let soften at room temperature; softens within hours after picking; fruit typically splits on tree in our climate; seems to sweeten when left on tree for 24 hours after split

excellent flavor/quality but challenge to peel due to delicate pulp membranes so we developed a technique whereas we cut ~1/2 of the top layer of the peel completely off all over the fruit such that the lower layer of peel protects the delicate pulp membranes as we peel the upper layer, then we peel the lower layer which comes off much easier, leavingvthe delicate pulp membrane largely intact

non-dormant defoliation?

defoliation in winter; vulnerable to root rot if corm continually wet in winter

defoliation in winter; vulnerable to root rot if corm continually wet in winter

none

seems leafing delayed till May 2019 cuz cold March

none

none

none

none

none

none

none

none

none

none

none

none

none

none

none

none

dormancy

none

none

none

none

dormancy

4

4

3

3

3

3

3

3

4

3

2

1

3

4

4

1

1

3 (bark issues)

2

1

3 (young)

1

1

1

3 (unknown issues)

1

1

2

3 (not easily assessed)

5

5 (potential root problem)

2

2

3

2